Of Kites, Bribes and Relics

It has been a wonderful journey so far with my kite photographer friend, Yves Guichard. For the past eight years, we have been playing with a kite attached with a camera, viewing beautiful Buddhist monuments of Bihār and successfully capturing some breathtaking images of many sacred Buddhist sites in Bihār. Once again after a gap of four years, we took the Mahāparinirvāṇa trail, the last journey of the Buddha. The objective was to once again capture some of the stūpas along this trail. Unfortunately, the weather forecast was not on our side. With cloudy weather when we left Nālandā on the 28^th of February, we still wanted to take a chance that the weather would turn favourable the next day. The last journey of the Buddha started from Griddhakūṭa (Vulture’s Peak). Moving in stages he touched present day Silāo, Nālandā, Patnā then crossed the Ganges, stopping here and there until he reached Vaiśālī.

Our First stopover is a village called Birpur in Vaiśālī district.  Xuanzang visited many sacred places in the vicinity of Vaiśālī during his pilgrimage in the 7^th CE. The places visited by Xuanzang in Vaiśālī may be broadly divided into six groups. Three of these include the Ashokan Pillar site, Royal Precinct and Relic Stupa that have been correctly identified. One was the place where Mahāpajāpati Gotami, the foster mother of Buddha, and also the first of the ordained Bhikkhuni, attained nirvāṇa. In the course of the GIS study of Xuanzang’s description, I realized that Birpur could be that place. A few elderly people of Birpur joined in to help us with the survey. With their help we reached a place that up until a few years ago had a few mounds. These had been bulldozed, apparently for the dirt that was needed to create a new railway track being laid. I felt bad. I was in Vaiśālī in 2010, surveying villages. Had I visited Birpur in 2010, the story would have been different; at least we could have taken some pictures for future research that an ancient mound had existed at this place.  A large part of the places mentioned by Xuanzang are still buried under layers of biomass. The initial revelation was led by some very enthusiast, passionate western explorers in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries. The entire work of exploration, excavation, conservation, etc was institutionalized and the ASI was formed. Identification, excavation and conservation is a time-taking process and might take centuries to reveal Xuanzang’s complete pilgrimage. To begin with, we should have had a projection of Xuanzang’s description completed by now and villages and places that fall under it being informed with an information board put in place. Awareness is the key.  Many of the heritage sites are vandalized out of ignorance and this could be avoided if we generate awareness. Unfortunately the passion and commitment with which the ASI was formed in the 1860’s is now lost, buried deeper than the archaeological remains itself.                                                                                                                                                 

Yves Guichard (in center) at Birpur

                                                                                                     Next, we reached Kesariyā, the place where stands a majestic 110 ft stupa to commemorate the offering of the bowl by the Buddha to the people of Vaiśālī. With efforts of Dr. K K Muhammad the process of scientific clearance of the Kesariyā mound was initiated in 2000. Due to some complications, the excavation was halted. It was a nice feeling to see the scientific clearance of the stupa being restarted. A very welcome news indeed; hopefully in next few years the complete stupa will be revealed.

We also captured the dark side (unexcavated side) of the Kesariyā stūpa. Not sensational news like the announcement of the first pictures of the dark side of the moon taken by soviet capsule Luna-3 in 1959, but to me this image of the unexcavated side of stupa is equally fascinating as it revealed part of the stupa. Just imagine a large lump of earth with dense vegetation in the middle of nowhere. This led to variety of local legends. Cunningham in 1861 was told by the local people that in ancient times King Bena along with his family burned himself inside the mound after his wife drowned in the nearby tank. Therefore, the Kesariyā mound was locally called ‘Rajā Bena ke deorā’. In an excavation in 2000, it was revealed to be a terraced stupa, one-of-kind in the Buddhist World.   

Aerial view of Kesariyā stūpa

                                                                                                      After we finished taking the pictures with the kite, I was approached by two officials who were supervising scientific clearance work of the Kesariyā stūpa. They told me that it is a ASI protected site and photography was not allowed. I should have taken their permission. They allowed us to take pictures and for that we should pay them Rs. 2000. Whooping large amount! They further added how all the tourists (mainly foreigners) pay them 2000 bucks for being allowed to take pictures. So much of easy money! Feeling envious of these guys!

Further north (of the Kesariyā stūpa) are remains of some huge structure, locally called as ‘rani ki vass’ meaning the Queen’s place.  Cunningham in 1862 saw a life size image of Buddha, a common feature south of Ganges (Magadha) but a rarity in the north of Ganges. This must be a very important pilgrimage place as remains are spread in a large area. The place was vandalized in the 1880’s and a large number of bricks were removed for some construction (Road?). On his second visit in 1881 he found the image of the Buddha missing. Cunningham reported ‘removed by a Bengali gentleman from Ramgarh Indigo Factory and its current whereabouts are unknown.’ Recently I was told that the Buddha image is kept at Indian Museum, Kolkotta. Does Bihār realize the kind of potential it holds in terms of Buddhist pilgrimage? All it has to do is to open ‘rani ki vaas’ mound (excavation) and reinstate the life-size Buddha from Kolkotta museum here (restoration). But I don’t see this happening anytime soon. It’s just too complicated!                                                               

'Rani ki Vaas' Mound

On 1^st March we reached Sofā temple on the banks of the Pandai River.  The existing temple has been built over the remains of an ancient Hindu temple. We wanted to take an aerial picture of the temple but the wind was blowing too hard to play with the kite and soon it started drizzling. 

Sofā temple in the middle of river bed.

Sofā temple, new temple and the scattered ancient remains

                                                                                                       

                                                                                                       Our last stop of this Mahaparinirvana trail was the twin pillar site of Rampurwā. Rampurwā is the only place where two Ashokan Pillars have been discovered in close proximity. And this is very intriguing. I believe this site should be the true Kuśinagara, the place where the Buddha attained Nirvāṇa. For detail, you may visit my blog post Rampurwā: A compelling case of Kuśinārā.

At Rampurwā, I was extremely happy to see a Buddha statue installed over one of the stupa mounds. I was told by the local Hindu priest that a group of Vietnamese pilgrims enshrined this image last year.  So, it is no more only an Archaelogical site, the first step towards restoration of its livingness has begun.  For us these are ‘Ashokan Pillar’ (Inscribed or not) to them they are ‘Dhamma Pillars’ (the Pillars have Dhamma edicts). To us Ashoka installed them on trade routes but for them Ashoka marked sacred footsteps of the Buddha with Pillars with and without Dhamma edicts.

We say that it is a Buddhist circuit and Buddhist pilgrimage but instead, we promote them as an Archaeological site.   Interpretation does matter! These are living monuments, very sacred to the world. Awareness has to come; an opportunity for all of us to work upon. Let’s begin!!!

A newly enshrined image of Buddha at Rampurwā

Two Dhamma Pillars of Rampurwā



Seeking inspiration from King Ashoka.....his pillars were raised thousands of miles away from their quarries to motivate people to follow the Middle Path.

New Stūpa at Buddhavana (Ayer-Pathri)

Light of Buddha DhammaFoundation International (LBDFI) in its efforts to revitalize the lesser known but very sacred places associated with the Buddha in Bihar have created a stūpa near the Buddha cave at village ayer-pathri in Gaya district. The stūpa is blessed by US based Tarthang Tulku Rinpoche.

Most of the focus from government and non-government agencies towards development and promotion of the Buddhist heritage in Bihar is currently limited to the prominent sites like Bodhgaya, Rajgir, Nalanda and Vaishali.  While, many other prominent sites like Jethian, Juafardih, Ayer-pathri, Parwati etc associated with the sublime wandering of the Buddha are not getting the attention that they being associated with the Buddha deserves. 

Rare Vishnu Sculpture (10th CE) stolen from village Katauna (Nalanda District), Bihar

Jeṭhian-Rājgir, Heritage Walk, 10th January, 2015

Visit of Venerable Ashin Nyanissara to Mahā Moggallāna Parinirvāṇa Stūpa, Juafarḍīh

5th Mahā Moggallāna Patha Padakkhiṇā Padayātrā

An  walk was organized to mark the occasion of Parinirvāṇa Anniversary of Magadhaputra, Iddhi Sammatho Mahā Moggallāna on  6th December, 2014. Venerable Ashin Nyanissara was the chief guest at the occasion.  Venerable Ashin Nyanissara has offered support towards development and restoration of the Mahā Moggallāna Parinirvāṇa Stūpa, Juafarḍīh.

A brief summary of the excavation at Juafardih by Archaeological Survey of India  

Sculpture stolen from Ranabigha, Nalanda

The broken statue of the Buddha when found by the river bed in 2011. (now stolen)

Recovery of stolen 'Maher Buddha' sculpture

Telegraph, 1st December, 2014

Photographic documentation of undocumented ancient sculptures in villages of Bihar is being done under the 'Mapping of Nalanda, Rajgir and around' Project. The project by Nava Nalanda Mahavihara (NNM, Deemed University), Nalanda has finally begun to pay dividends. The three and half feet Buddha sculpture stolen from the village Maher, Gaya district in the first week of May, 2014 has been finally traced from a nearby village.   The Maher sculpture of the Buddha was already documented by NNM. The documentation of the sculpture by NNM   facilitated an effective FIR with the police and also helped in flashing the news of the theft in Newspapers and Internet. 

Kaṭhina-civara ceremony at Nava Nalanda Mahavihara (Deemed University)

                                                                                                  

A group of Tai Khamti Buddhist Community of Arunachal Pradesh celebrated Kaṭhina-civara function with monks, nuns, faculty and students of Nava Nalanda Mahavihara (Deemed University) and community of Nalanda.  

More than 30 lay Buddhist men and women under the Mrs. Protima Longphong from Arunachal Pradesh participated in the ceremony. The robe prepared by them was then offered to the Saṅgha of Nava Nalanda Mahavihara.

Khamti ladies preparing looms for weaving Chivara

Nālandā Dhamma- A Vipassana centre now in Nālandā

For all those who don’t know what Vipassana is: 

Vipassana, which means to see things as they really are, is one of India's most ancient techniques of meditation. It was rediscovered by Gotama Buddha more than 2500 years ago and was taught by him as a universal remedy for all worldly ills. This non-sectarian technique aims for the total eradication of mental impurities and the resultant highest happiness of full liberation. Since the time of Buddha, Vipassana has been handed down, to the present day, by an unbroken chain of teachers. (Read more about Vipassana, the tradition and course)

For the Vipassana practitioners or those who know about it, there is good news!

Nava Nalanda Mahavihara (Deemed University) has transformed its sprawling 42 bedded guest house at Nava Nalanda Sanaskritik Gram into a Vipassana meditation center.  A series of 10-day seminar on Vipassana course in Nālandā has begun. The first 10-day course took place on 27^th August to 7^th August 2014. The course was conducted by Achārya Shri S S Tapariaji.   Twenty  eight participants, that include lay and monk students, faculty of NNM and local people participated in the course. The second course from 10^th October to 20^th October, 2014 also saw a good response and participants included three monks, four Vietnamese nuns, students and staff of NNM and community members from villages Ayer-Pathri and Jeṭhian (both ancient places are associated with the Buddha) successfully completed the course.

 

Next  ten-day courses,

1^st to 11th December, 2014

1st February to 12th February, 2015

10th March to 21 March 2015

1st April to 12th April 2015 

Interested seekers may register/ enquire at drdlama@gmail.com, neevda@yahoo.com

Theft of Buddha's sculpture from Lohjara (Gaya District)

 

The Buddha's statue at village Lohjara that is now stolen.

 

On the night of 1^st July, a gang of sculpture thieves stole a 4ft Buddha’s sculpture in Earth-touching posture (8^th-12^th CE) from Lohjara village in Gaya district.  This was the second theft in two months in Gaya district. On 14th of May a sculpture of Buddha was stolen fromMaher, a remote village in Gaya district in a similar manner.

The sculpture at Lohjara was kept in open under a tree. On the night of  the theft, a villager noticed a four-wheeler moving in the village at around 11 pm. Though, it was something unusual but he didn't suspect any foul play. People of Maher too shared a similar story. These Buddha statues are usually more than 300 kgs in weight and needs 8 to 10 people to remove them. These thefts suggest that there is an organized gang of thieves operating in the area.

The volume of such reported and unreported cases and such cases not going beyond the police FIR (First Information Reported) level raises some eyebrows. Should we believe that Intelligence Bureau and unofficial network of spies of Government are not finding any leads? Or maybe they are simply not interested or the illegal trade that is flourishing in connivance with Government authorities. 

Telegraph reports: Second Buddha statue theft in 50 days

Pandey Ji (in white kurta ), the caretaker of the sculpture. (picture from 2012)

 

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Theft of Lohjara Buddha statute registered with ART LOSS REGISTER

The link to ART LOSS REGISTER registration of Lohajara Buddha

Theft of rare Buddha sculpture from Maher (Gaya, India)

Thousands of villages in Bihar (India) are situated over the mounds of ancient Buddhist monastic remains. Maher, in Gaya District is one such village that has many ancient Buddhist sculptures and pillars from ancient monastery from Pala period      ( 8^th -12^th CE) scattered all over the village. 

Nava Nalanda Mahavihara (NNM), under its “EngagedBuddhism” programme has taken an initiative of involving the community of Maher towards safety of ancient remains scattered in the village. Villagers under the leadership of their heritage leaders Vijay Sao and Raju Choudhary held several community meetings to secure the sculptures lying unattended in the backyard of the village. It is unfortunate that while the efforts were still going on one of the sculpture got stolen on 16^th May, 2014. 

Villagers narrated how they heard dogs barking unusually very loudly at midnight of that unfortunate night. Villagers didn’t pay much heed to the warnings issued by dogs. And in the morning they found one of the sculptures missing from the place.

Telegraph Reports:

The rare Buddha sculpture that is now stolen.

Theft of scared artefacts from villages of Bihar continues unabated. The international syndicates in collaboration with their local counterparts are gradually plundering Bihar’s heritage and we are losing tangible heritage at such an alarming rate that unless the trend is arrested soon, we may have no religious artefacts to bequeath to our progeny. Most of the local shrines, village collectives in Bihar have been completely depleted. Just a few months back a beautiful sculpture of Buddha at village Mustafapur(Near Nalanda) was mutilated in an unsuccessful bid to steal it.

In first week of July, 2014, a large gang of thief tried to remove a large sculpture of the Buddha from Tiuri, a village 10kms east from Bihar Sharif. Thanks to the vigilant villagers that a timely, collective intervention by villagers at mid-night foiled the bid.

 Many such cases are reported each year but no success in nailing the culprits has led to an increase in such untoward incidents.  We have strong laws to prevent artefact theft but the laws are not backed up well by the enforcement authorities. Such cases are not dealt with the seriousness they deserve and they are treated as any other petty crime. The laws relating to artefact theft and trafficking should be reviewed and made more punitive to deter prospective offenders’ criminal courage.

Usually villagers are so accustomed to such incidents that they don’t report such matters to police. One of the reasons they mention for not reporting is indifferent attitude of the officials. They feel reporting is a futile exercise with no results. But the youths of the village are aware and have reported the matter to the police station.

There are many international voluntary institutions that help track stolen sculptures. Lack of photographic documentation is a big limitation for seeking any help from such agencies. Luckily the sculpture stolen from Maher was photographed by me. I am now mulling to put this sculpture on international alert with the help of voluntary tracking institutions. Many of the sculptures from Bihar can be seen in auctions conducted by Sotheby’s, Christie's and other auction houses in Europe and US. Most of these sculptures don’t have provenance records. It’s high time that the government realised the need to create artefact theft register at state level. Villagers should be encouraged to report incidences of theft to the appropriate authority.
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The Theft of Maher Buddha has been registered with ART LOSS REGISTER 

Link of Maher Buddha registeration with ART LOSS REGISTER